DC in an AC world...

Back in January, I purchased an American Models SD-60 locomotive from a vendor at the World's Greatest Hobby On Tour show. It was the CSX road name which is increasingly difficult to find. I took the train out of the box this weekend at the Muncie and Western train show for it's inaugural run.

The end of the box. Some wag has marked the unit as "AC". It's a high rail model, and the DC box is bot checked.

It would not work.

It just sat there and vibrated. A couple of folks looked at it. One theory is that it was a DC model (everything I have is AC).  So I set it aside and got on with the show.

Today, I had a chance to look at it. Rich B. lent me a DC rectifier that I could hook up to my AC transformers. First up, I removed the body to inspect the chassis, the motor and the gearing assemblies.

I went to disconnect the headlight and the whole circuit board came loose! Talk about a tight connection!

I also pulled the body off another SD-60 in the collection for comparison.

The CSX engine and circuit board

The AC High rail circuit board. 

As the pictures show, the two circuit boards are clearly different. I placed the chassis on the track  and hooked up the rectifier. A little bit of movement! It would move and bit then halt.I'd throw the switch and it would go the other direction.

While I had it open, I checked the rotation of the motor shaft. It was experiencing some binding, but there was nothing obviously wrong. From past experience, I know that if you overtighten the plates that secure the drive shaft mounts for the large flywheel, the shaft can bind, so I backed off the screws until the two plates were snug but not tight.

I tried it again. Success! The engine would move back and forth. But only at very low power levels. If I raise the power of the AC transformer, the engine would slow and then stop. But at low speed, the engine moved and pulled the large intermodal freight string around the layout.

The CSX engine moving freight on it's demo run.

Verdict: This is a DC powered engine.

Well...poop. All my other engines are AC. So guess, I've got a DC engine in the collection. 

In other news, added a new box car to the collection. A nice Showcase line car for the DT&I.

Fixing the MTH 2 Bay Hopper

...or Sunday afternoon at the repair bench.

So the MTH 2 -bay hopper I'd mail-ordered arrived in less than stellar condition. The weight was rattling internally. The weight may also have dismounted the end walls from both ends of the car. Plus the catwalk had come loose. Hell of a job on shipping boys!  Here's a few shots of what it looked like on arrival.

You can see the disconnected catwalk and the end walls

Another view of the end wall and the catwalk

The more I looked at it the more irritable I became.

 
Sadly as I did not open the box and recognize the issue within 10 days OR save the original shipping box, my return options with the merchant appear to be non-existent.  Fair enough - they have a clearly stated policy.  Guess I'm stuck with it. So...taking the bull by the horns, I set out to fix the damage.

First step - dis-assembly. Most other cars I own have the body held on with some snap-tight system. By spreading the body walls, I got the chassis to drop out and away from the body. Then the loose end caps fell off and out. This left me with five distinct parts.

Body, end walls, weight and chassis.

The only things that appear broken are the mounting pins on the top of each end wall. Even there, a little bit of the pins remain present. You can see where the initial glue has failed and allowed the parts to become loose. The weight was just rattling around loose inside the body.

The weight is a single, stamped metal part with four mounting holes in the corners.

Attaching the weight was just a question of centering the weight over the mounting holes and pressing down. There's enough resistance that the weight almost 'snaps' in place. If subjected to a lot of shaking it could come loose, but should stay put from normal usage.

The weight re-installed on the chassis. The bend in the metal weight allows it to conform to the chassis design. 

Next up was fitting the end walls back into place. They slid in easily, figuring out the exact positioning was a little mysterious, so I cheated and pulled out an old SHS 2-Bay hopper and checked how the parts fit on  that one. Give these are supposed to be made from the same molds, assembly should be similar.

I've fit the part to the chassis trying to figure out how the connecting rod, err...connects to the brake assembly. In the end the SHS PS-2 gave me the pattern to follow.

Included just to show how the L girder extends through the car wall.

You can see the old glue line and the pin slots in the ceiling of the car body.

 I dropped the end walls into the body and applied ABS cement. After it quick set I flipped the body over onto the chassis and installed it. The trickiest part was to align the brake machinery lever correctly, but even that was not too difficult. A quick visual inspect shows the end walls seated properly to the chassis.

Looking better!

The last step was getting the catwalk fixed. The pins had sheared off over about half the car. I placed small amounts of CA glue on the supports along the car roof and then pushed the catwalk down onto the glue. A rubber band held it in place, but I placed two bottles atop the catwalk for additional weight while the CA glue sets. 

All done save the test drive!

 This was a relatively short repair. Maybe 45 minutes total from starting disassemble to completion. I took my time - this included analysis of the problem and defining the solution. In the end, it was easier than I expected.

My only regret is that I should not have to basically do model kit level rough assembly for a brand new ready to roll item. I may buy additional items from MTH in the future, but I'll want to see it's condition before putting down the cash.

The urban planning and landscaping continues!

A few more picture and a video or two showing the progress I've made on the town. I do feel like I'm turning a corner as I think there is more 'done' now than 'not done'. Scott's benchmarke question seems to be "can we game on it?". Scott - the answer is now yes, we could game on it. Not all of it, but enough for a game.

Now on to the pictures!

This is the east section of the layout. We're looking north from the south end of the layout. The wall sections in the foreground are from Acheson Creations. The near buildings are from Armorcast.

Pulling back a bit for an overview. The old Marx tower is a placeholder for now. Trying to decide if I like a tower there.

Cheaspapeake Stree takes a sharp turn into town here. It's a light industrial area.

Another shot of Chesapeake Lane, this time at the intersection with Butler Street.

The Plasticville factory has rail service in the rear with the ability to load trailers as well. The yard signs are from Armorcast. They are actually 'business cards' with their name and number embossed in the casting.

Another shot of the Plasticville factory. It marks the start of the industrial area.

Looking north from the edge of the bridge, the Burlington Northern U33C is bearing down on the cameraman. Better clear that track quick! 

MOVIE TIME!

A short video showing the U33C hauling a string of freight cars around the layout.

And another short video as the train rolls through town.